Boot Fitting 201
We’re at the start of the 2012/13 season, so it’s a good time to be thinking about boots again. I ended my Boot Fitting 101 article promising to talk about boot sole lengths and how to make the boot your own, so we’ll pick up there.
When I started boot fitting in the mid eighties, the lengths of the boot soles were much shorter than they are today. For example, 15 to 20 years ago, a size 27/27.5 shell measured 310-312mm. That same size today will measure 316-320mm! Mondo sizing—the distance from the back of your heel to the end of your longest toe, measured in centimeters—was almost unheard of. So why the change?
In Boot Fitting 101, I talked about how a ski boot should fit suspiciously snug. The biggest problem with the boot fitting problem is that the boot often feels too short to the customer out of the box. (As true as this is today, imagine what it was like 25 years ago when boots were ~7mm shorter.) Boot manufacturers started making their boots longer to try to mitigate the problem of constantly hearing, “this boot is too short.”
So how does a new (or even experienced) boot buyer and boot fitter actually know what size they are getting? One simple rule of thumb is to subtract 40mm from the boot sole length. Why 40mm? This is the combined measurement of the toe and heel lugs of the boot. So, for example, if you’ve got a 315mm boot sole length, you subtract 40 to get 275. Divide by 10, and you’ve got your Mondo length: 27.5.
However, while this calculation will help you arrive at your Mondo length, it’s most helpful just to know your boot sole length. (I can’t stress this enough.) If you know your boot sole length (BSL) number—assuming it’s coming from a correctly sized boot (again, see the Boot Fitting 101 article)—you’ll know what size boot you’ll need when you begin to try on boots from various manufacturers.
Boot sole length is always stamped onto the heel lug. Memorize this number.
On this boot, boot sole length = 316. Mondo size = 27.5.
Most boots are stamped and are accurate to within 1 or 2mm. Do the math and when you find what you think is the correct size, shell size yourself. Or just go to a qualified fitter and he or she can do all the dirty work for you.
Making The Boot Your Own
Once you have found the right size and the right shape, now what? Are you ready to ski? Most people would think so, especially those who are relatively new to the sport. But there are still some things you can do to enhance fit and improve performance. The first thing is to get a custom foot bed.
A custom foot bed finishes the fit of your boot. It creates a foundation that mirrors the shape of the bottom of your foot that not only stabilizes the foot but transfers maximum force to the edge of the ski.
Custom foot bed (all photos courtesy of Master Fit University).
Now, I’m not talking about one of those “off the shelf,” “trim to fit,” pre-formed foot beds that so many shops are fond of pushing because it is an easy $40 sale. I’m talking about a truly customizable insole, one that is actually molded to your foot!
There are a number of these types of foot beds on the market, and what you buy will depends on what your shop sells. The most important thing with a custom foot bed is not that you get the right brand, but that you get the right type of foot bed. An experienced boot fitter should be able to recommend an insole for you based on a couple of different criteria.
• Dorsiflexion
• Windlass action
• Forefoot mobility
Dorsiflexion is the ability to bend or close the ankle joint. In general, the more flexible you are in the ankle joint, the more supportive a foot bed you’ll need. Conversely, the more rigid you are in the ankle joint, the more flexible (or shock absorbing) the footbed should be. Here are examples of limited (or rigid) dorsiflexion, and excessive (or flexible) dorsiflexion.
Limited ankle joint.
Flexible ankle joint.
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Comments:
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October 19, 2011 at 1:01 am
I have a set of really well fitting (custom punched with custom cork insoles) resort ski boots (Tecnica Diablos) but my AT boots (BD Factors) just don’t offer the same level of precision. Do you suggest using the same fitting techniques for AT boots, or does precision have to be compromised for the sake of tourability?
I know it’s sort of an apples to oranges comparison (The “90 Flex” Tecnicas are about a pound heavier and quite a bit stiffer than the “130 Flex” BD’s) but the shells on both boots have a good fit and I’d like the ski feel, if not the flex to match (but not at the expense of tourability).
October 19, 2011 at 3:54 pm
Well, you are right. It is apples to oranges. I have a hard time believing that the Diablo 90 is stiffer than the Factor. The only diablo 90 I remember is the junior race boot. Is that the boot you are in? Anyway, that aside, it has been my experience that A/T boots do not perform the same as pure alpine boots. if they did you would see more skiers using them on lift served terrain.
To get to your question of fitting techniques i would say yes. An A/T boot should fit as well as any alpine boot. You should have a custom footbed in them as well. I do some back country skiing (not necessarily touring) and I use my alpine boots because I like the precision and durability. That’s not to say that A/T boots are not durable but I have had to repair or replace failed parts on them.
The biggest difference between Alpine and A/T boots is the mechanism that unlocks the cuff. This in itself changes how a boot flexes/performs. The alpine boot has four bolts that hold the cuff to the lower shell. It has a spine that is not compromised by a locking mechanism. The lateral rigidity is superior because of this. Most skiers who use A/T boots do so because of the “walk/hike-ability”. They prefer the articulating cuff when getting out to terrain that can only be accessed by skinning or hiking. Do you sacrifice performance for this? I believe you do. I have not yet come across a boot that is a master of both pure alpine skiing and touring. That is why I skin in my Lange RX 130.
October 19, 2011 at 5:32 pm
Thanks for the input. To clarify, my resort boots are 2008 Tecnica Diablo Flame Hotform boots in a 26/26.5 shell size. The stiffer spine may explain the difference, but I’ll try custom insoles (and maybe a real Booster strap) on the BD’s once there’s enough snow to make some turns and see if that helps.
November 11, 2011 at 3:19 am
I bought a pair of boots that fit right in the store but after 2 months of skiing they were killing my ankles.
Do I wear thicker socks?
November 22, 2011 at 3:18 pm
no boot “should take a few days of painful break in”. The ankle issue can stem from a couple different issues. The boot may be too big or the wrong shape for the foot. Did you buy a custom footbed? Could be limited dorsiflexion or hyper dorsiflexion. Could be pronation. A qualified boot fitter can best determine what the issue is a come up with the proper solution. Thicker socks is never the answer. Take your boots to a boot fitter!
November 12, 2011 at 11:52 pm
Or replace the liners with Intuitions and size down next time you buy boots. They should take a few days of painful break in if you want them to ski well for a while.
October 5, 2012 at 9:53 pm
Thanks for this fantastic resource. The 101 and 201 articles are very useful. My last purchase was in the mid-80s: Koflach boots (yeah, right…Kof-who??), Kästle 205cm racing skis, Marker race bindings set to DIN 15. Real piste-warrior stuff. It’s all changed now, much more scientific, but quite confusing. I have spent many hours reading bits and pieces from dozens of sites, but up until now couldn’t find a single, concise, clearly laid-out explanation of all the main variables in boot and ski selection. Congratulations.
I’ve recently purchased some Tecnica Diablo Pro 130s for on-piste and Tecnica Bushwackers for back country. My 1980s knowledge, careful discussions with shop fitting staff and some web research led me to these two boots. I’ve tried on all the major brands and for some reason the Tecnicas always fit my feet best. Extremely snug but with wiggle room for my rather long big toe.
Next step is skis. I’m 180cm, 83kg, at the age of 50 I’m not the aggressive mogul-hopper I used to be but I can still carve it up if the need arises. I only want to buy one pair, mainly for groomed expert runs and some mogul work. Brand loyalty leads me back to Kästle and I’m looking at some MX88s in a 178 or 188 length. Any thoughts or alternative suggestions? Bindings?
October 13, 2012 at 11:56 am
How about some mention of width when doing a shell fit? I was taught to move foot all the way to the outer part of the boot (right on right boot, left on left boot) and look for about a finger’s width (super general, I know, maybe 10-15mm?) between the edge of the foot and the shell. Wider and you have too loose of a fit, narrower and you’re squeezing toes and pinning the heel down so it can’t have proper flexion. What say you to that?
October 13, 2012 at 2:18 pm
As a boot fitter its is always a good idea to check shell width if u are unsure of how a particular boot fits. I find that knowing my inventory allows me to skip certain sizing techniques but have used that particular one as well as shell sizing for length to reassure the customer.
December 30, 2012 at 9:41 am
I have a “knot” on the outside of my little toe from where I possibly broke it.
Is there a way to carve out or grind out just a little to keep my little toe from hurting after day 3 of skiing?
December 30, 2012 at 11:52 am
Yes, any reputable boot fitting shop should have the proper tools and and experience to do any type of grind or stretch to give u more room in the affected area.
January 1, 2013 at 4:52 pm
Hey, I have a pair of Nordica 295 mm boots, so they’re 25.4 Mondo. I measured my feet & they’re 22mm. So do I have too big of boots, or are they good?? Just getting into the skiing game & trying to learn everything I can – thanks for the article.
January 5, 2013 at 3:47 am
Yes your boots are too big based on the length measurement of your foot. If however your instep to heel measurement is 25.5 then the boot may be the right size. I just had a customer yesterday who’s foot measured 26.5 in length but I wound up selling him a 29.5 because his instep was so high! His instep to heel measured 28.5!
With this in mind, how far can you buckle the two lower buckles? If you can crank thee two buckles down over your foot and not cause discomfort then the boot is probably too big! Remember, a boot that fits properly does NOT need to be buckled (lower buckles) to ski in it.
March 15, 2013 at 9:28 am
Charlie, can you explain how you measured instep-to-heel? I have the same issue the customer you mentioned does.
March 17, 2013 at 1:35 pm
Put the customers foot on the brannock. Take a flexible tape measure preferably cloth and hold one end at the corner of the heel cup and pull tape over instep to other corner. Voilà
March 3, 2013 at 1:38 pm
Great articles, Charlie–thanks so much for taking the time. Quick question: I’ve got feet that are about one street shoe size in difference (9.5US and 10.5US), with the bigger one having a flatter arch. Any advice on sizing a new pair of ski boots? I know there’s probably no easy answer, but just wanted to get your opinion…thanks!
March 6, 2013 at 9:23 am
To answer your question as simply as possible, you have to ask yourself what your goal is: comfort or performance? If comfort is the goal, then size to your bigger foot. If it’s performance you are looking for, then size to the smaller foot. Have your feet measured with a mondo point measuring device, Do not use your shoe size! This is the biggest mistake people make. It may very well be that your feet fall within the same shell size. Always try the smaller size just to make sure it is or is not the right size, and please go to a reputable shop. And remember that the shape of the shell is always important to how a boot fits. And finally, a custom insole can make a huge difference in what size will work best. Good luck! Ski fast and leave a narrow track!
March 24, 2013 at 7:38 am
Hello,
Thanks for an enlightening article! One question though, should I get myself a pair of custom foot beds that I take with me to the shop, so I can find boots that fit me well with the custom foot beds, or should the foot beds be bought after I have bought my dream boot to be customized to fit this particular boot?
I’m sure a professional boot fitter would answer this question, when I go to the store asking to try new boots, but I’m afraid there are very few – if any – professional boot fitters here in Finland.
Thanks a lot!
Mikael
May 4, 2013 at 2:34 am
Great articles. I have a question. I’m moving to Denver this winter and wanted to get my gear in advance. I went to the only ski shop this town has and tried on a couple of boots and found out I needed a 27.5 and not a 28.5 like I thought, according to the sales guy. I liked the Rossignol synergy sensor 2 90 the best, but it wasn’t the boot I wanted. The fit was fine and my foot went in with no problem, but I haven’t skied in almost 20 years and thought the boot was a bit advanced for me. So, after looking around I bought a pair of Rossignol synergy sensor 2 80 boots online. Yes I know better. Here is the problem, getting the boots on is literally an effort that takes a couple of minutes for each boot with no socks on. They are new and unused. However, once the boots are on they feel like they are molded to my feet and I love them. Only problem is getting them to where I can get them on with socks on without wearing myself out for the day. Any suggestions?
May 5, 2013 at 12:29 pm
First of all you need to have a proper sock. A very thin wool (smartwool or the like) sock. The Bridgedale ultralight is probably the thinnest ski sock. Trying to put a ski boot on bare foot is way more difficult than with a socked foot. The rossignol sensor 2 80 should not be that difficult to put on as it is only an 80 flex. Which brings me to technique. If I had a nickel for every time I had to show someone how to put on a boot I could probably pay my cell phone bill. What you don’t want to do is pull the tongue up and or forward as this does NOT spread the throat of the boot. What you want to do do is use the tongue as a lever against either the inside(medial) or outside(lateral) aspect of the cuff with one hand while pushing the opposite aspect with the other hand. Oh, and never, ever use cotton socks. Cotton socks retain moisture and they love to stick to the liner material making the on/off process much more difficult.
May 6, 2013 at 5:42 pm
Charlie you are awesome. I actually tried to get the boots on with the thinnest socks I own which were medium weight hiking socks. I’m currently waiting for 4 different pair of smartwool ski socks to arrive in the mail. It wasn’t the sock or lack of a sock that I was having a problem with. I was actually moving the tongue from side to side pulling it slightly away from my leg to try to get more room to get the boots on, but my foot wasn’t going in which is why I tried it with no socks and finally got the boots on after at least five to six minutes. I was afraid of damaging my boots if I tried to separate the overlap of plastic at the throat. Using the technique you just described I put on my medium weight hiking socks again and used the tongue and my hand to pull apart the throat and my foot slid right in. Had both boots on in under a minute. The fit is too tight with the medium weight socks, but I figure once I use a real ultra light ski sock (Smartwool) and my boot starts to pack some the fit will be perfect. Thank you so much for the information and the fact that you take the time to help people like myself. If only you lived in the Denver area I would come to you for all my ski needs no matter what the cost. You are an awesome person. Thanks again!